Ascots & Chapels – Bespoke Tailors since 1871

Accessorising your Suit: Mastering the Detail

ascots — Tue, 19 Mar 2024 13:30:51 +0000

Right chaps, we’ll be the first to admit that we put a lot of emphasis on nailing the cut of your suit. To our minds, an impeccably tailored suit can sculpt you into something close to sartorial perfection. But here’s the kicker: a killer suit isn’t enough to make heads turn. Pairing a stylish suit with the right accessories injects personality and panache into your look, taking it from ‘meh’ to ‘mesmerising’ in a moment.

Getting it right doesn’t always come naturally, though, and there are some hard and fast rules that even we rebels like to play by. To help you on your way, we’ve laid out the groundwork and dissected the dos and don’ts in a mini handbook of how to accessorise your suit, from top to toe.

Glasses (sun, not prescription): For gents living in the UAE, sunglasses aren’t merely an accessory – they’re a survival tool. For a can’t-fail beginner combination, stick with time-tested styles that suit your face shape impeccably, such as Aviators and Wayfarers. Once you’ve mastered this, you can employ new tricks, such as matching the lenses to suit colour for next-level coordination.

Ties: The quintessential menswear accessory, and possibly one of the trickiest elements to get right. Width, pattern, length, fabric – it’s a fashion sudoku. Remember, wide ties for broad lapels, skinny ties for slim-fit suits. A tie should always hover gracefully above your waistband, too. And, when it comes to colours and patterns, keep it contrasting but complimentary. Choose colours next to each other on the colour wheel (like purple and blue) for an analogous approach, or colours directly opposite each other (like blue and orange) for a bolder statement.

Tie bars: The ‘80s called, saying they want their tie bars back; but, sorry, we’re keeping them. A tie bar is a nifty accessory that stops your tie from swinging in a strong wind or swimming in your spaghetti vongole. Here, the clip should match the width of your shirt and sit snuggly between the third and fourth buttons of your shirt. Pro tip: don’t forget the metal finish. Coordinate this with your watch or cufflinks for extra style points.

Pocket watches: Feeling dapper? A pocket watch is your ticket to vintage charm. Stick to sophisticated metallics like silver, muted golds and brushed bronze, and avoid anything that screams “bling”. It just looks cheap. Think about how the finish complements your skin tone and suit colour too. Warmer-toned suits call for warmer metals, while classic monochromes can take a wider range of colours.

Pocket squares: To pocket square or not to pocket square? Three-piece suit. Absolutely. Two-piece? Only if you’re after some added oomph, and even then only with a formal jacket. Experiment with colours, folds and patterns to add visual interest and depth to your look. Simple square folds work well in work settings, while weddings call for the more flamboyant puff or triangle fold. Patterns work best on plain suits and vice versa. Oh, and remember – never, ever match your pocket square directly with your tie.

Lapel pins: Boutonnieres, floral pins, stick pins, brooches – the lapel is your canvas, so paint it with personality. Keep it on the left, parallel to your lapel, and let your imagination run wild. A boutonniere (small flower) is usually reserved for weddings, while cotton floral lapels work well at formal events like the races. Meanwhile, metal lapel pins and brooches can be used in more casual settings to bring out your quirkiness. Think animal, sports and travel-themed motifs. These little details are guaranteed to pack a punch.

Cufflinks: The tiny but mighty accessory is guaranteed to add a touch of refinement to your ensemble. Choose classic metals (silver and gold) for formal affairs, and consider the tone of your outfit when picking a colour. For example, silver cufflinks work well with cooler tones like grey or navy, while gold complements warmer hues, like brown or olive. Novelty cufflinks have a place, too, but reserve these for more casual settings. Just make sure they play nice with your other metallic accessories for that oh-so-cohesive look.

Internal linings: Why stop at the surface? Ditch the traditional matchy-matchy approach and opt for a rebellious contrast lining that adds a pop of personality to your ensemble. Whether it’s a daring plash of deep red or a playful pattern peeking from beneath your business suit, let your lining be a wink to the person you are outside the office or event.

Belts: Ah, the great belt debate. Belts with suits, sometimes. Leather, always. A well-tailored pair of trousers will rarely have belt loops, but side adjusting buckles instead. If you do choose trousers with belt loops, a belt is non-negotiable. But please, no faded brass buckles. The belt should compliment the suit, not draw your eye away from it. Choose a high-grade leather and opt for a darker hue for darker suits. Keep it simple, keep it classy and, for the love of style, match it with your shoes.

Socks: The unsung heroes of suiting up. Proper suit etiquette calls for mid-calf or longer socks so that your leg remains covered when the bottom of your trousers inevitably rises. Matching your socks to your trousers brings cohesion (side note: never match your socks to your shoes), but don’t shy away from contrast to spice things up. Patterned socks are fine, but don’t let them clash with your suit’s motif. Instead, tie them to another detail in your outfit, like your tie, for a harmonious symphony of style that’ll have heads turning.

So, whether you’re a seasoned style aficionado or a sartorial novice, remember this: the devil is in the details. Now go forth, gents, and accessorise with confidence, knowing that every pocket square fold, pin choice and sock choice adds a unique flair to your style.

For more help on nailing your accessories, pop into your favourite Ascots & Chapels store for a free consultation. See you soon, chaps!

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

Gary Sweeney is Brand & Style Director at Ascots and Chapels. He fell in love with tailoring and retail as a teenager, starting his career as a junior apprentice at the luxury clothing store Louis Copeland. Now, with fifteen years of international tailoring and retail experience, including six years at renowned Irish department store Brown Thomas, Gary’s passion is delivering exceptional personalized experiences for every client. His style influences are traditionally very British, with a contemporary twist. Gary holds a Degree in Retail Management and Services from the Dublin Institute of Technology.

The Stats Behind Dressing for Success

ascots — Wed, 06 Mar 2024 04:47:40 +0000

It takes just seven seconds for someone to form an opinion about you.

That’s all it takes for someone to decide whether they like, admire and respect you. And, while it might be tempting to hope that the calibre of your conversation holds some sway, there just isn’t time. That first impression is what counts, and it’s based on your appearance, your demeanour and, of course, your dress code.

Clothes say a lot about who you are and how you want to be seen.

Those first impressions are lasting ones, so you need to make sure your first interactions are positive. Dressing for success isn’t just a matter of style – it’s a strategy. Clothing choices inform how people perceive you, and they influence how you behave, too.

Let’s dig into the science and stats behind this theory.

“You cannot climb the ladder of success dressed in the costume of failure” – Zig Ziglar

Getting the Job: Make or Break

The clothes you wear don’t just tell a prospective employer about your preferences for Oxford shoes over brogues, or cotton over twill. Your outfit speaks volumes about your professionalism, attention to detail and overall suitability for a role. In the realms of job hiring, where competition is fierce and opportunities are limited, first impressions can make or break the next step in your career.

According to Forbes (2015), 95% of employers factor in an applicant’s appearance when making hiring decisions. What’s more, a staggering 71% of companies have admitted to rejecting applicants who were not dressed appropriately. So, although casual dress codes may be gaining ground in the workplace, there’s no excuse for sloppiness. Beyond adhering to a dress code, dressing well shows that you understand the company culture and industry norms.

Sales Meetings: Closing the Deal

While you might think a comprehensive pitch deck and a bulletproof business case are enough to win over prospective clients, the evidence suggests otherwise. Recent studies have shown that customers are significantly more likely (25%) to trust a well-dressed salesperson. Well-dressed individuals are perceived to be more competent and authoritative, which in turn builds greater trust and credibility during these business transactions.

A few years ago, the University of Illinois and UC San Francisco conducted an experiment to test this theory. They invited 180 participants to play the role of “seller” and “buyer” in a hypothetical setting, where they had to negotiate a price in six minutes. The catch? Participants were randomly assigned either a formal or casual outfit to wear. The results revealed that those dressed in formal clothing obtained significantly higher profits, and those in casual dress made far more concessions.

Taking the Reins: The Dynamics of Leadership

So, if clothing has the power to communicate who you are, what you value and how you fit into an organisation’s culture, what does this mean for leaders?

According to a survey conducted by Gallup, employees are 15% more likely to respect a well-dressed leader. This makes sense. After all, you’re more likely to pay attention to someone who is well turned out and exudes confidence and charisma.

Studies show that dressing well doesn’t just affect the way people perceive you, it impacts the way you act, too. A recent study revealed that people who dress better feel more confident, powerful and focused on details. Mark Zuckerberg, the world’s biggest ambassador for plain grey t-shirts, famously donned a tie every day for a year as “a symbol of how serious and important a year this was”. So, dressing like a boss could, in fact, help you become a better boss.

Getting ahead: promotions and career advancement

It pays to think carefully about what you wear – literally. According to the Washington Post, 93% of executives said that an employee’s style of clothes influences their chances of getting promoted. Other studies tend to agree – more than three-quarters (78.6%) of well-groomed professionals have better career growth, and over four-fifths (83.4%) believe a person’s appearance is linked to success.

But remember, a suit doesn’t automatically mean success. With the rise of Silicon Valley and a global pandemic that normalised remote working (and sloppier dress choices), it’s harder to define what ‘well-dressed’ actually means. Context is key. Turning up to an office with a casual dress code in formal business attire or wearing sneakers to a suit-only organisation will show you haven’t read the culture and don’t fit in.

Examples from the business world

Understanding industry and office norms is crucial to choosing clothing that enhances rather than hampers your presence. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t stand out. Think about some of the world’s most successful business people. They all have a ‘uniform’, but they still stand out – for the right reasons.

Steve Jobs applied his “think different” approach in tech to his own wardrobe by distinguishing himself with turtleneck sweaters and sneakers. Elon Musk’s clothing choices reflect his innovative mindset and mission to push the boundaries, by combining day-to-day casual and stylish ensembles with tailored suits that add refinement and authority to his appearance.

Howard Schultz, the former CEO of Starbucks, took this approach to personal branding in another direction with sharp and approachable attire. His uniform of well-tailored suits and understated accessories highlighted his blend of corporate professionalism and personable leadership.

Even global leaders like US President Barack Obama and Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau put serious consideration into what they wear, ensuring they always look sophisticated and well-groomed. Their dress code doesn’t just tell the world they’re stylish – it upholds the country’s culture and values, ensuring they command respect wherever they go.

In short, the most distinguished businessmen demonstrate that dressing for success isn’t about following trends, but curating a personal style that commands respect and inspires confidence.

Ready to dress for success (and possibly a pay rise)? Pop into your favourite store to say hello.

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

The art of elegance: why bespoke suits are worth the investment

ascots — Sat, 27 Jan 2024 06:05:23 +0000

“In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different”, Coco Chanel

A word to the wise, never underestimate the power or presence of a good suit. The shoulder seam that broadens the shoulder, the tapered jacket that nips the waste, a carefully considered break in the trouser that lengthens the leg. A great suit helps a chap stand straighter and carry himself with poise and pride. It helps him look his best.

But, let it be said, not all suits were created equal. Rarely, if ever, can such results be achieved with an off-the-peg alternative.

A bespoke suit is a masterpiece of tailoring that goes beyond the confines of standard sizing to ensure a personalized fit that flatters the frame and allows its wearer to infuse their personality, preferences and style choices into every stitch.

It’s a commitment to being distinctive, different and, of course, irreplaceable.

So let’s dive into exactly what makes a bespoke suit so special and helps explain why it’s worth its weight in gold.

Consultations and measurements

The process begins with a consultation between the wardrobe consultant and the client. Unlike a usual in-store appointment, this isn’t about ‘selling’ you a suit. It’s the beginning of an intimate collaboration that will enable the consultant, cutter and tailor to understand your preferences, style and specific requirements.

Precise measurements are taken at this stage to capture the nuances of your physique and stance. This collaborative approach ensures that the suit isn’t just tailored to fit you like a glove, but it’s also designed to enhance your individuality.

Fabric selection

At the heart of any good suit, is a good fabric. At this stage, your consultant will share a range of materials. Any tailors worth their salt will have an extensive variety of premium options at their fingertips, so read it as a red flag if they fall short.

At Ascots & Chapels, we have an archive of over 6,000 of the finest materials exclusively woven by trusted suppliers, from traditional tailoring fabrics like pure New Wool to bright tonal shades of Merino Extra Fine Panama, along with over 1000 lining samples.

Your consultant will provide expert advice on fabric choices here, ensuring a finish that combines a luxurious feel with durability and longevity.

Pattern creation

Once you have finalised fabric choices and measurements, the cutter creates a pattern—a blueprint for the entire garment. The importance here lies in the meticulous attention to detail to ensure a flawless fit that complements the unique contours of your body. Every curve, slope and angle will be taken into consideration, promising a suit that drapes seamlessly and enhances your physique.

This is where the garment transforms from a suit to your suit.

Cut and Assembly

The actual crafting of the suit involves the equally meticulous cutting of fabric pieces to ensure seamless alignment during assembly. The first draft, known as the basted garment, lacks buttons, lapels, or buttonholes, and is held together with white stitching.

This basted fitting allows you both to assess the initial stages of construction and make crucial adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. It enables you both to fine-tune the suit’s proportions and address any areas that need alteration.

Think of it as your blank canvas.

Fittings and Adjustments

Unlike quick-turnaround tailors who promise a suit in a matter of days, the bespoke process demands time and commitment. Multiple fittings—typically three or four—are essential to ensure perfect fit.

Remember, perfection requires patience. Any tailor who promises to knock up a suit in 72 hours is not creating a bespoke suit. On Saville Row, it can take 12-16 weeks to create a bespoke suit, so be prepared to wait.

Why?

Each fitting gives you the opportunity to try on the suit and enables the tailor to make necessary adjustments, ensuring a garment that drapes flawlessly.

Hand-finishing and details

The culmination of this journey involves hand-finishing and detailing – lapels, pockets, buttonholes, and more. We’ll be frank, done properly, this can elevate a suit to a work of art.

Elements like hand-stitched details and personalized monogramming not only contribute to the suit’s durability but also imbue it with a distinctive character – your distinctive character.

Conclusion

From the initial consultation to the final hand-stitched details, a British bespoke suit is a labour of love. While quick-turnaround options may be tempting, the true essence of bespoke tailoring lies in the time, effort, and expertise dedicated to creating a garment that not only transcends fashion but becomes a timeless reflection of individual style – and makes you look damn good at the same time.

Ready to invest in a bespoke suit? Pop into your favourite store for your first consultation.

We look forward to seeing you very soon.

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

Trendsetters and icons: The best-dressed celebs of 2023

ascots — Tue, 26 Dec 2023 05:30:04 +0000

As we have now officially closed the door on 2023, it’s time to doff our hats in honour of the best-dressed of the past year. We sure saw our fair share of eyebrow-raising fashion moments, but it’s also been a year of sartorial triumphs.

But who did it best?

The gents we’re celebrating here haven’t just embraced good taste, they’ve turned it into an art form. They effortlessly raised the style bar with sharper suits, bolder colours and sleeker silhouettes, taking us on a journey marked by daring choices and timeless elegance.

So, hold onto your pocket squares chaps, because here’s our annual roundup of the best-dressed men of 2023.

Best dressed actor

Modern Maverick: Timothée Chalamet

Now, here is a man with a wardrobe almost as diverse as his IMDB page. From technical tailoring to bright block colours, Chalamet is redefining formal dressing for the modern age. His look is simultaneously carefully curated and spontaneous – and we’re here for it.

Effortless Cool: Brad Pitt

Known for his timeless style, Brad Pitt is like a fine wine – he only gets better with age. This is a man who knows how to blend elegance with practicality. His off-duty style is noteworthy, but the hallmark of his impeccable style is his mastery of suits, which are always a study of precision and fit.

Eccentric Elegance: Rami Malekuld

This Oscar-winner is known for pushing the boundaries of men’s fashion with eccentric, yet elegant choices. Bold patterns, unusual silhouettes and daring accessories bring a sense of drama to the red carpet.

Our choice: Timothée Chalamet

Timothée Chalamet is no stranger to the best-dressed lists (he’s graced the likes of GQ and Esquire for several years now), but 2023 has seen him reach even loftier heights. This year, we were treated to a daring magenta Wonka-inspired suit and an off-duty leather jacket and trouser ensemble. Sure, he may be a little more daring than most, but he’s a trendsetting trailblazer. We think there’s a lot to learn from his youthful energy and eclectic approach.

Best-dressed businessmen

Power Suits with Panache: Elon Musk

Tech titan Elon Musk has mastered the ‘badass boardroom’ look, with impeccably tailored suits with clean lines that emphasise his precision and attention to detail.

Modern Minimalism: Alexandre Arnault

Tiffany and Co.’s newest Chief Artistic Director has the markings of a renegade style icon. He’s often seen wearing suits that infuse modern elements, like unique fabric choices or unusual silhouettes.

Geek of Chic: Federico Marchetti

Effortlessly combining Italian panache with global pizazz, the former CEO of YOOX Net-a-Porter Group always displays meticulous attention to detail. From elegant pocket squares to statement cufflinks, each detail is thoughtfully curated to demonstrate a nuanced understanding of how the tiniest details can create a powerful on-brand aesthetic.

Our choice: Elon Musk

In the fast-paced world of business, sharp suits spell success. There are a few gents in this field worthy of our attention, but this fella’ has risen to not only conquer boardrooms, but the fashion world too. Elon Musk proves that good business isn’t all stiff collars, it can be cool too.

Best-dressed sports star

Street Style King: Lewis Hamilton

This F1 superstar effortlessly blurs the lines between sportswear and high fashion, with tailored tracksuits, stylish sneakers and statement jewellery. Athleisure at its finest.

Preppy Perfection: Virat Kohli

India’s former cricket team captain is renowned for his preference for custom tailoring. Every outfit is tailored to perfection, accentuating his athletic physique and highlighting his meticulous attention to detail. Think polo shirts, casual blazers and athletic-inspired footwear.

Suave and Swagger: Cristiano Ronaldo

Ronaldo might be best known for his lightning-fast footwork, but he’s fast gained a reputation as one of footie’s most fashionable fellas. He’s no stranger to colour and has been sighted sporting suits in bold colours paired with luxury sneakers, as well as his own merchandise brand CR7.

Our choice: Lewis Hamilton

When he’s not winning championships and breaking records, Hamilton often hits the headlines for his fearless fashion choices that combine patterns, textures and colours. This year, he’s collaborated with some of the most prestigious fashion houses in the world and has also used his platform to encourage sustainable fashion choices. We applaud him.

Who did it best?

This is a tough one to call, but we’ve crowned Timothée Chalamet this year’s best-dressed icon. While we may find it hard to replicate some of his more daring ensembles, we applaud his playful approach to dressing the part. He respects the rules, but he isn’t afraid to bend them either.

This year, Chalamet didn’t just floor us, he did it with a wink and a smile. Yes, there’s a lot to learn from this elegant enigma.

Experiment fearlessly: Push the boundaries of conventional fashion by experimenting with different styles, colours and textures.
Attention to tailoring: Invest in tailoring to ensure your clothing complements your body.
Playful approach: Don’t take style too seriously – have fun with your choices and let your personality shine.
Invest in timeless pieces: Combine daring choices with timeless and classic elements for balance.
It’s all in the detail: Accessories and grooming are essential for a polished look.

This is a man who knows the value of a good tailor and regularly sports sleek silhouettes, perfectly tailored jackets and expertly fitted trousers. It just goes to show that a well-tailored suit isn’t just an outfit, it’s a power move.

Ready to ramp up your wardrobe in 2024? Pop into one of our stores for a consultation to discuss your new look.

Happy New Year gents. Here’s to a stylish and sartorially splendid 2024. Looking forward to seeing you soon.

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

Bespoke suits: what to expect from the fitting process

ascots — Fri, 24 Nov 2023 06:03:40 +0000

“Style is knowing what suits you, who you are and what you want to say”, Gore Vidal

There comes a point in a man’s life when off-the-peg no longer cuts it. Maybe you could get away with it in your early twenties, when you were keen and green and your dimensions were a little, ahem, ‘slighter’. But for any of us over the age of, say, 21, an off-the-peg suit can look a little ridiculous.

A bespoke suit, au contraire, is the gold standard against which the most ardent sartorialists measure their wardrobe. A properly tailored suit is universally flattering. It’s a time-tolerant piece piece that fits like a second skin.

But getting your hands on a bespoke suit can be a daunting prospect because, well, the world of tailoring is notoriously shrouded in mystique. Not many people know what happens behind its closed doors and too many gents are afraid to find out.

So, chaps, to help encourage you to bid adieu to those too-short jackets and too-tight trousers, we’re going to lift the lid on what happens behind the curtains and tell you exactly what happens at each stage of the process.

First appointment: The initial consultation and measurements

Getting a suit is a deeply personal experience, so we like to conduct this initial consultation in person. This is where we really get to the nitty-gritty details of what you’re looking for in a suit. We’ll ask you a whole string of questions to get an accurate picture of what you need and want in your suit. For instance, what are your priorities? What is it for? Is it for a cocktail party (in which case, it needs some outstanding detail) or day-to-day (where durability is key)? We’ll also need to consider factors like temperature and climate.

This is the bit where we’ll discuss style choices too – single-breasted or double-breasted, buttons, flaps, pockets, pleats, cuffs, lapels – the list goes on. We’ll also explore the cloth books and look at patterns, colour inspiration and trends.

Exciting stuff, eh?

Fear not, you don’t need to go into the consultation knowing exactly what you’re looking for. Our team will be able to help advise on suits that are sympathetic to certain frames, cuts that can illuminate your best features and details that can help hide other bits. But it’s a good idea to have some idea of what you’re looking for.

Then, a bespoke cutter (with years of experience) will take your measurements. We always like to make sure the cutter takes your measurements because then they’ll have a clear picture of you as they analyse your measurements and create the pattern. As well as getting the numbers, they’ll take into consideration all of the peculiarities of your posture and stance as you walk.

Second appointment: First fitting or ‘the basted fitting’

Around one month to six weeks later, you’ll get to see the first draft or blueprint of your suit. This stage is known as the ‘basted fitting’, because the cloth has been hand-cut and loosely tacked, basted together with white basting cloth. It will all look rather unglamorous – it’s really just a skeleton – but it will give you a good idea of whether the suit is headed in the right direction. The cutter will re-confirm your measurements, then pin and chalk the suit for improvements, taking notes and instructing the tailor on how the suit needs to be altered.

We’ll look at the technical fit of the garment and assess the way you walk and stand in it too. At this stage, you’ll also finalise some style choices, such as width lapels, buttons, pockets, lining and cuffs.

Third appointment: Second fitting

Things are about to get even more exciting. At this point, your suit is looking decidedly more suit-like. It might even be almost completely finished, depending on the style and whether your measurements have changed at all. The cutter will assess and scrutinise the alterations carried out by the specialist tailor and make any final adjustments.

Now that your suit feels and looks more like a suit, it’s an excellent opportunity for you to provide some final feedback on fit and feel.

Fourth appointment: Third fitting

The end is nigh! This is likely to be your final fitting, but cutters are perfectionists by nature and won’t rest until the suit is perfect. They’ll assess whether the suit is ready and whether any alterations are required. But if it is… behold the perfect suit!

All in all, the entire process involves around 80-100 hours of manual work by skilled craftsmen.

Final words from Gary

Seems a lot less daunting when you know what to expect, eh? Before we leave you, here’s some sage advice on how to approach each fitting:

Do your homework: You’re going to be asked a lot of questions – and it’s in your best interest to have a good idea of what your answers will be beforehand. Your character and quirks are literally stitched into your suit, so don’t come clueless.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions: That said, don’t feel like you need to know Our team is highly specialised and brimming with sartorial knowledge. Make the most of them and really ply them with questions. We welcome interrogation.
Relax and don’t look in the mirror. When most people look in the mirror, they pull themselves straight like a soldier but your tailor will be looking at your natural stance during measurements.
Wear the right clothes: We recommend wearing the same (or similar) shoes to those that you’ll be wearing with the suit to all of your fittings. It’s also worth wearing your best or most frequently worn shirt.
Don’t forget the details: Remember, you have full creative control. This is your chance to create your perfect piece of tailoring. The sartorial world is your oyster.

Ready to get your bespoke suit? Simply pop into your nearest Ascots & Chapels store for a consultation to get going. See you soon gents.

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

The suit patterns we love – and why

ascots — Sun, 29 Oct 2023 08:27:58 +0000

So, you’re in need of a sharp suit. Well, gents, this is no time for a sad navy sack. It’s 2023! We’ve come a long way from those silly soft clothes that epitomized the age of Zoom (ah, 2020). The suit is having a heyday – and we speak not only of colour and cut, but pattern too. From elegant pinstripes and rougher rope stripes to Prince of Wales checks and trippy dots, there’s a wider spectrum of suit patterns to choose from than ever.

That’s exciting, but it can be a minefield too.

Afterall, there’s time and a place for everything. Some patterns are better suited to certain occasions. Some patterns suit – and serve – certain frames too.

Still stuck for ideas? Consider this your comprehensive guide to pattern: what works and what, well, really doesn’t.

Stripes

When it comes to pattern, stripes are arguably the most ubiquitous in menswear – particularly in suits. Once favoured almost exclusively by bankers and city workers, stripes are now suitable for almost any occasion, though ironically they may feel a little too much of a statement for the office nowadays.

Vertical stripes elevate the frame and give a slimming illusion, so they work particularly well for short and heavyset men. For the taller men amongst you – unless you want to accentuate your height – vertical stripes are best avoided.

Men with a smaller frame should opt for thin, tightly spaced stripes, while larger men look good in wide, sparsely spaced stripes.

So what does that mean for some of the most common stripe suit patterns?

Pinstripe: Once upon a time, the width and colour of the stripes would have denoted your rank at work, but those rules are long gone. Since the stripes are thin and narrow, this pattern is best suited to men with smaller frames.

Rope stripe: So called because the stripe resembles the texture of a rope, rope stripe suits feature thicker lines with wider spaces. A good option for wider-set men who want to appear slimmer.

Chalk stripe: Like the line made by a piece of chalk, these stripes are bolder and less perfect than the traditional pinstripe. Ideal if you’re looking to make a striking statement but best avoided if you have a thin frame as it gives the illusion of fewer stripes, making you look even slimmer.

Checks

Checks are particularly popular on sports coats and blazers, but designers are increasingly experimenting with the pattern in suits of all shapes and sizes.

As a general rule of thumb, slimmer men should avoid wide checks. Why? Because you’ll run the risk of looking even thinner in comparison to the weave of the fabric.

If you’re a shorter man, you should opt for a more rectangular check that is taller than it is wide to elongate your frame. Remember, the larger the check, the smaller you will appear in comparison to the fabric. Taller men can get away with larger check patterns. Smaller checks work for everyone.

There are at least half a dozen different takes on checks, but two of the most common are:

Prince of Wales: Also known as the Glen check or Glen plaid, this pattern was first adopted by Edward VII. An excellent option for breaking up traditional black and navy, consider pairing a grey jacket with a pop of colour for more formal occasions.

Windowpane: This is a versatile and popular pattern, but it doesn’t work well for broad silhouettes. Men with a wider frame should opt for bigger patterns, to avoid looking disproportionately wider, while thinner men who want to appear broader should opt for medium-sized checks.

Houndstooth and Herringbone

Houndstooth features abstract four-pointed shapes, while herringbone is so named because it resembles the skeleton of a fish. Both are particularly popular for casual sports jackets.

Houndstooth jackets are much easier to wear than their plaid counterparts, making them the perfect option for those who can’t be too loud at work but want to punch up an outfit.

Birdseye fabric

Not as obvious as classic as stripes and checks, birdseye fabrics work for all body types. Like Herringbone, Birdseye is actually a texture rather than a print. The weave creates a distinctive pattern of tiny circles that resemble the eyes of a bird.

Birdseye patterns are typically found on medium and heavy weight suits given the heavier nature of the weave. It’s an excellent option for men who prefer to dress in solid block colours but want to add a little spark to their suit. The pattern feels more modern than traditional twills too.

Remember chaps, a patterned suit will help you stand out, but make sure it’s for the right reasons. So, whether it’s your first foray into this brave new world or you’re veteran, pop into your favourite store for advice on how to pull off a pattern.

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

How to extend the life of your wardrobe

ascots — Thu, 28 Sep 2023 06:42:10 +0000

So, you’ve finally built the bespoke wardrobe of your dreams. You’ve got the gear for any occasion and you’re confidently suited and booted for every season. Wedding in Tuscany, boardroom business, day at the races – you’ve nailed your look.

We understand better than most how long it takes to curate the perfect wardrobe, which is why it pains us so much to hear of shiny navy suits, curling collars or – the horror – moth-eaten cashmere.

Sadly, clothes don’t last forever. But, with these nifty tips and tricks to help increase the lifespan of your favourite garments, you can get pretty close.

Tip 1: Does it need washing?

The more you wash clothes, the quicker they wear away. Your high-quality suit doesn’t need to be washed after every use, it’s designed to be brush-cleaned. Clean small stains with water and a soft towel, and make sure you give your suit a gentle once-over with a horsehair brush when you’re done for the day to remove lint and other particles.

There’s no set rule on how often a suit should be dry cleaned, but we recommend dropping it off at your cleaners after every four to five wears.

Tip 2: When you must wash, do it properly

That said, I don’t think your friends will thank us too kindly if you choose to start squeezing four or five wears out of your dress shirts. But don’t just throw them in the machine with the rest of your clothes.

First, pay attention to the insides of your collars and cuffs, as this is where stains build up. Wash these immediately (along with any spillages) with an extra treatment or a paste of detergent and water.

Turn your shirts inside out and wash like colours together to keep vibrancy. And always unbutton your shirts and cuffs to prevent buttons from coming loose. Remember to wash on a low heat too, to avoid misshaping. You can clean t-shirts on a cold wash to keep them in pristine condition.

Tip 3: Give your clothes a break

While you can get rid of dust and food particles pretty quickly, it takes a little longer to release all of that moisture build-up. When you get home or back to your hotel room, let the fibres relax by hanging your suit up for at least 24 hours (48 hours for heavier fabrics). This will help get it back to its optimal drape.

Tip 4: Press properly

Dryers are a number one enemy for beautiful clothes as they break down the fibres of the fabric, causing garments to shrink and age prematurely. Instead of tumble drying, air dry your shirts on a wooden hanger. Just make sure the width of the hanger doesn’t outstretch the width of the shoulders, as this can give an uneven shape.

When it comes to ironing your shirts, never use a dry iron as this will give a strange sheen to the fabric. Instead, get a good steamer or bring your shirts to the dry cleaners and ask them to press them.

Tip 5: Keep your clothes cool

Heat doesn’t help any garment, but humidity and moisture cause collars to curl. Keep them cool and dry, or use a room humidifier to prevent unsightly collars. Never let your shirts sit in the washer for longer than needed either, as this accelerates curling. Simply steam when damp and keep the top button fastened when hanging to keep the shape. A stiffener is a nifty device that prevents curling, too.

Tip 6: Store your clothes with care

Storage is where a lot of the good work comes undone. To keep your wardrobe in tip-top condition…

Use the dust bags we provide at Ascots & Chapels to prevent moth damage. The bags are made from breathable materials that promote air circulation while keeping out dust, water and pesky moths.
Always use wood or plastic hangers with rounded edges that fill out the shoulders of your suit. This will encourage your garment to retain its shape while allowing moisture to exit.
Periodically de-clutter your wardrobe. If packed too closely, garments will wrinkle and air won’t be able to circulate, which can build up humidity and damage fibres.
Never hang t-shirts, as this can stretch them and create unsightly hanger marks. Folding them upright will keep them fluffy.
Use cedar blocks liberally. They act as a natural moth repellent and absorb residual moisture to help keep your clothes pristine.
If you need to pack your suit away for the season, have it dry-cleaned beforehand to strip it of any dust and food particles that might appeal to moths.

Tip 7: Perfect the art of packing

To keep your suit immaculate and in good condition on holiday or business trips, use a suitcase designed for tailored clothes. Alternatively, turn your suit inside out, put the shoulders together and roll it up, making sure the seams and lapels are lined up. Use a plastic or cardboard band to help maintain the shirt collar shape, and place a sheet of paper on the back of your shirt before folding.

So, there we go, gents. Your go-to guide for keeping your wardrobe as good-looking as you.

Pop into your favourite store for more tips and quality garments that – provided you look after them – will last as long as you.

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

Dressing the part: are your clothes sending the right messages?

ascots — Tue, 22 Aug 2023 10:21:22 +0000

In the wise words of Mark Twain, “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence in society”.

Now, jokes aside chaps, your clothes are working harder than you might imagine. Your clothes say a lot about who you are and how you want to be seen. For centuries, they’ve been used as a social and economic indicator of status. They are tools for fitting in – and standing out. Factors like colour, tailoring, brands and style say a lot about you, from your job and ambitions to your emotions and spending habits.

You really are what you wear.

Science supports this, too. Several studies have shown that what we wear not only informs how people perceive us, it also influences the way we behave.

So, is your dress code sending the right messages?

Women

Lacking a lady in your life? Before you blame the calibre of conversation on your go-to dating app, take a good hard look at what you’re wearing. Colour, brands and tailoring could be standing in the way of you and your soul mate.

Take colour. Humans have different emotional experiences with different shades and respond to them subconsciously. Red can signal passion, dominance and courage, while blue is almost always associated with calmness and tranquillity. Black implies a sense of luxury and is often perceived as powerful, mysterious and serious. So, choose your colours wisely.

Styling can be a huge turn off too. According to a recent survey, 66% of women say wrinkled clothes are a big turn-off, 55% say socks and sandals are a BIG no-no, and ill-fitting trousers are an instant no-go.

Meanwhile, sharp tailoring, pressed collared dress shirts and fitted sweaters are instant wins. Sure, they might accentuate your broad shoulders better, but they also send a clear message that you pay attention to detail, you take pride in yourself and you’re in control.

So, gents, why not suit up for some instant sex appeal?

Business associates

Gone are the days when success took the form of a shirt and tie. Today’s most successful leaders and CEOs sport a wide array of looks. Richard Branson is a fan of an open-neck shirt, pressed trousers and a well-fitting blazer. Ayman Hariri, founder of Vero, is well-known for his sharp, polished styling. Mark Zuckerberg is renowned for his minimalist wardrobe, namely the grey t-shirt and hoodie.

But they all have something in common.

Every one of them has a ‘uniform’ that has been carefully considered to influence how they are remembered.

Our top tip for you, gents? Cultivate a uniform that makes you feel like Superman and stick with it.

That might mean donning more formal attire in a business casual setting to create a subconscious boundary between you and your employees. Numerous studies have found that wearing more formal attire can make you feel more self-assured and improve your performance too.

Alternatively, that might mean opting for a more relaxed dress code to encourage openness and creativity. Dressing like your audience can help you appear more trustworthy, too.

The right clothes will help you earn a place in people’s memory and command the respect you deserve.

Peers

First impressions matter, and you only have one chance to get it right. It takes just 30 seconds to form a long-lasting opinion of someone. How do you want people to perceive you? Confident? Trustworthy? Affable?

Unlike the clothes you choose for the boardroom, psychologists say the aim here is not to stand out. It’s human nature to think favourably of people who are similar to us. Dressing in similar attire to your peers sends a powerful message that you are just like them.

So basically, don’t be the guy who turns up to a casual birthday in a three-piece suit.

However, you also want to convey specific character and personality traits.

For instance, when it comes to jeans and trousers, outdated cuts might suggest you are outdated or, worse, don’t take care of yourself. Desert boots might suggest you have a more adventurous and spontaneous side, while brogues indicate that you’re someone to be taken seriously.

The devil is in the detail.

Family

Calm down, no one is going to tell you to forgo your Saturday morning gym pants any time soon. (In fact, some research shows that slipping into active wear makes you more likely to exercise and acts as a reminder to make healthy choices.)

But you also want to make sure you’re sending the right messages to your loved ones.

‘Dopamine dressing’ is the art of dressing to feel good and improve the mood of those around you. That means choosing colours that excite you, experimenting with textures that make you feel a certain way and wearing accessories that capture your personality.

So, embrace the sherbet lemon shirt, soft cashmere sweater and statement sunnies for an instant mood lift – you’ll be doing the whole household a service.

Conclusion: Dress to impress

It’s easy to write off clothes as shallow, but style is about so much more than getting dressed. The right clothes affect the way we see ourselves. They could be the difference between a bad date and a great one, a promotion, a win in the board room and a row-free weekend with the little ones.

Pop into your favourite store for a consultation, and we can help make sure you’re sending the right messages, whatever the occasion.

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

How to suit up in the summer

ascots — Tue, 20 Jun 2023 12:26:35 +0000

“Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self, and helps define me as a man to whom details matter” – Gay Tales.

Sure, it’s been heating up for months, but summer is now *officially* here. You know what that means, chaps. Spirits are high, but so are the temperatures. As the city slows down, many of us will be jetting off to slightly cooler climes to escape the most relentless hot days – but those suits will still be coming with us.

Pulling on a suit on a sticky summer’s day needn’t result in spontaneous combustion, and it is still possible to look polished while staying comfortable. You just need to remember what to look for. Here are some handy pointers on how to look sharp without breaking a sweat.

1. Suits aren’t stifling you, it’s the fabric

It might seem blindingly obvious, but some suits just aren’t made for heat. When it comes to choosing your suit, you need to opt for fabrics that are lightweight, breathable and porous. That means fabrics lighter than 270g per metre and made from moisture-wicking fibres with open weaves.

Linen is the poster boy for summer suiting for a very good reason. Honestly, it offers almost as much breathability as a bare leg. An open weave allows body heat to escape while inviting fresh air to flow in for a cooling effect. Plus, it’s naturally moisture-wicking. And, when worn correctly, linen looks good. Brad Pitt has broken the internet several times for his creased and generously sized linen looks. But it’s not the most suitcase-friendly fabric on the block. If you’re hoping to avoid rumples, a linen blend cloth is a good compromise as it is more resistant to creases.

Seersucker is having a real moment. It’s crisper than linen, quick drying and hides wrinkles, which makes it ideal for a long flight or a prolonged period in a suitcase. Made from a puckered material (usually cotton), seersucker is substantial enough to make a formal jacket but light enough to prevent you from melting into the cobblestones. Wes Anderson loves seersucker so much that he wears the same suit every year. Get it right, and we guarantee you’ll be tempted to do so too.

And what of wool? No need to guffaw – there is a place for it in the summertime (although perhaps not your thick navy winter suit). Tropical lightweight wools are woven with large gaps for maximum breathability, moisture-wicking and quick drying. Merino wool is great for on-the-go summer style, thanks to its four-way stretch and temperature-regulating properties.

2. Embrace easy-going summer tailoring

As a general rule of thumb, summer suits err on the casual side. Give the usual charcoal two-piece a holiday and opt for loose, unstructured and billowing suits instead.

That said, lightweight suits with softer constructions can sometimes look sloppy if not properly tailored. The key to smart sweat-free style is relaxed tailoring. Opting for a quarter, half or skeleton lining will reduce insulation and allow for better aeration, too. If you’re worried about looking too informal, you could always add a button-down collar to elevate a casual summer suit and add some formality.

3. Colour outside the lines in summer

Where possible, you want to choose suits in pale, sun-reflecting shades. Summer offers a greater range of colours than winter, so now is your opportunity to be a little more playful. Pale blues and pinks work well, though make sure you choose muted tones to avoid looking like you’re selling gelato. Beige, stone and light grey are summer favourites too. And, really, is there anything that smacks of summer more than a white linen suit?

Suits should generally be lighter than your winter darks, but that doesn’t mean you need to abandon your charcoal linen suit. Colour is often dictated by the occasion, and navy, charcoal and grey are still the safest bets for professional environments. Simply add a colourful tie to move more easily from office to bar.

4. Less really is more in the summer

When it comes to accessories, comfort is king. If you’re wearing a relaxed summer suit, you could lose the tie altogether and wear your shirt open next for more airflow. If the neckpiece is non-negotiable, try a more casual approach, such as a knitted tie. For more formal occasions, a complementary pocket square will more than suffice.

With footwear, steer clear of anything too formal like brogues or Oxfords. A woven loafer or even an espadrille works well with less structured suits, while suede is an excellent option for more formal occasions.

Finish the look off with your favourite pair of sunglasses and a good all-purpose hat, and you’re good to go.

To sum up…

Summer style is a tricky thing to master, but once you’ve got the hang of these four rules, you’ll be golden. Fear not, though, your summer wardrobe is within reach. Just get in touch with our tailors for a consultation and say hello to a sweat-free summer. Happy holidays, chaps!

Author: Gary Sweeney

About Gary Sweeney

The Ascots & Chapels Guide to Stealth Wealth Dressing

ascots — Thu, 25 May 2023 12:25:43 +0000

Something has been stirring in the fashion world. Over the past few years, we’ve seen noisy fashion houses and big bold logo-driven trends from the likes of Gucci, Fendi and Versace supplanted by classic cashmere brands and minimalist designers like Loro Piana, Brunello Cuccinelli and Berluti. Instead of Rolexes, range rovers and diamonds, the ultra-wealthy are opting for quieter wardrobe choices that ooze luxury.

The name of this latest fashion buzzword?

Stealth wealth.

It’s undeniable – stealth wealth is the prevailing style of the moment. It’s all over HBO’s The Succession, from the logo-free caps to those impeccably tailored suits. Celebs like Gwyneth Paltrow (aka the High Priestess of Stealth Wealth) and Adam Sandler are making cashmere cool again. Even Prince Charles has become a poster boy for the look.

But what exactly is stealth wealth and how can you apply it to your wardrobe?

What is stealth wealth?

Also known as ‘Old Money Aesthetic’ and ‘Low Key Luxe’, stealth wealth is all about understated luxury for people who appreciate true quality and craftsmanship. Instead of brazen shows of wealth like brash logos and obvious brand names, the focus is on top-notch fabrics, impeccable cuts and meticulous attention to detail. It is an anti-fad statement that differentiates those who are truly stylish from slaves to the latest Insta-worthy piece. Harsh, but true.

Quiet, discreet, and indifferent – a true Stealth Wealth Dresser (SWD) oozes luxury.

But the concept of stealth wealth is far from new. In fact, at Ascots & Chapels, we’ve been preaching it for years – so you could say we’re experts.

Here are our golden rules and top considerations to keep in mind:

Consideration 1: The cut

Sharp tailoring naturally underpins the stealth wealth look. Think impeccable suits and separates, a relaxed tailored approach to casual wear and paired-back designs cut in flattering silhouettes. Garments that rely on the rigour of the line rather than trending shapes and styles.

The idea here is to refrain from obvious markers of money and lean into those streamlined silhouettes that say: “Money may talk, but I’m a guy who knows that wealth whispers”.

Contemporary, timeless, casual elegance.

Consider tailored outwear, like a well-fitting overcoat or blazer, or channel that ‘monastic chic’ look a la Jeremy Strong in The Succession. And of course, your suit should be fit to perfection and dripping with understated sophistication.

Consideration 2: The fabric

A true SWD may dress in low-key pieces, but you can bet they’re made from the finest fabrics that exude class and simplicity. They are, to put it simply, plush.

Stealth wealth is all about layerable luxurious fabrics made from a beautiful array of natural fibres: merino, organic cotton, leather, vicuna and linens. Fabrics that allow the quality of your garments to shine and really showcase the quality of craftsmanship and fabrication.

At Ascots & Chapels, we’ve been saying for years that the best-made pieces never go out of style or bow to a trend – and now it seems the whole world agrees. So, opt for those buttery-soft suede loafers, extra-fine Merino polos and 100% linen shirts with no expense spared on texture or comfort.

Consideration 3: The colours

There’s no place for garish colours and bling for the SWD. No-colour-colour is the only way forward. We’re talking neutral and earthy tones or black, white, beige, navy, and greys. You could even look to your morning coffee for inspiration – think caramels, cappuccinos, and tan. You get the gist.

Slip a flash of colour in there by all means, but don’t go primary palate on us. Accents of pastel tones for spring and summer and fall tones in colder months will do nicely. And, when it comes to patterns, make sure it’s a classic. Stripes and checked patterns are perfectly permissible but steer clear of anything ostentatious.

Let the quality and cut of your suit do the hard work. Nothing exudes sophistication like an impeccably tailored dark bespoke suit.

Consideration 4: The detail

Skip the bells and whistles, for the SWD less is more. Keep logos and brands to an absolute minimum and opt for hidden touches that hallmark luxury. That means saying no to designer logo buckles and clasps (ahem, Gucci).

Stealth wealth dressing is a lesson in the art of subtlety; less bling for more zing. Instead, work with tailors and brands who pay meticulous attention to detail that others may miss. Exquisite stitching and a discreet logo will give a discreetly luxurious aesthetic without stirring up undue attention for, frankly, all the wrong reasons.

Conclusion

High-quality materials, impeccable craftsmanship and timeless design are key to successful stealth wealth dressing. Instead of focusing on the latest trends, true SWDs invest in well-crafted and highly versatile pieces that help maintain a refined appearance while standing the test of time.

At Ascots & Chapels, we’re experts in elegant, sophisticated and timeless menswear staples. Pop into your favourite store for a consultation and we’ll have you stealth-wealth ready in no time.

Author: Gary Sweeney